![]() The close AM style is intention on all (circulation and proof) 1993 cents and thus these are normal. Please feel free to post follow-up questions if you feel the need. I also have some more info about Indian Head cents: I would advise you to check out this article about the 43 pennies worth saving - they include not just the well-known rarities, like the 1955 doubled die and 1909-S VDB cent, but also other valuable coins, like the 1911-S, 1924-D cent, etc: I do recommend a 5x magnifying glass, which will make the task of looking for that doubled die much easier. Regular 1955 cents that appear to have little or no wear are worth at least 5 to 8 cents each, so if you think that makes it worth your time to continue sorting through then by all means do so. This will absolutely lower their value by 50 percent or more. As you probably know, it’s best to not clean any of your coins. Great question - the short answer to your main question is yes, collectors WILL pay more for a nice version of a “common” coin versus one that is well worn. Thank you for your time and knowledge, it is very much appreciated! Jaimie Reply Im sorry about the novel I just wrote and all of the questions, just hoping to gather some info as to what our next step should be? I know to look for key dates but my biggest question for this lot is… If the dates are old, say most before the forties, and I have many old multiples that might be more common but the condition on some seem pretty nice considering their age, what is my best bet for these? Are collectors interested in old coins with more common dates if the condition is nice? There are just so many that I think it would cost me more to have them inspected or graded than what their value is. Those seem easier to locate info on but the 1000+ old wheat pennies, Indian nickels,etc. There are about 50 old Morgans, Mercury dimes, Peace dollars, etc. My fiancé has a coin collection from his father. Are these worth anything if they arrant a double die type? About 1/3 look super shiny and new while the others, though in perfect condition, appear either brown or red. I am starting the process of looking for the double die, but I’ve noticed that most of these pennies appear uncirculated or close to that. Can you help? Ebay will bury me in fees if I do one-offs and I really don’t have the time to go through the ones I have more than just putting them all in date order. I see ‘values’ listed everywhere, but no one seems to be BUYING coins. Great memories and seems a shame that all his (our) hard work isn’t worth more than. I spent my childhood sorting coins on long winter nights with my father. I’ve only scratched the surface as I brought only 3 ammo cans-worth back from the Midwest where I’m from from. None want to bother with the dates (which start in the 1910’s) that I have. 2 each before 1958 anything past that, only face value. I have phoned several coin dealers in Los Angeles (where I live) and they all have offered. He left each of his children 42 ammunition cases filled with mostly pennies, all rolled or carded and ALL being before 1972. ![]() ![]() My late father was a self proclaimed ‘Coin Accumulator’ (as opposed to a collector). Here are the values of 1909 wheat pennies: There were a lot fewer of these coins minted at the San Francisco mint - which makes the S’s worth quite a bit more. ![]() However, his initials were removed mid-way through production and not reinstated again until 1918 when they were switched to the front (instead of the reverse) side of the coin. When the 1909 coins were first struck, they had Brenner’s initials on the reverse - these are known as VDB cents. ![]() Now we come to a whole new section, the 1909 wheat cent and what you should look for… The Value Of 1909 Wheat Penniesġ909 was the first year that wheat cents were issued.
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